As I drifted in and out of consciousness, I half expected to feel the “stroke of shame”. But the light arm touch, affectionately called the “SoS” by my fellow travellers, to gently stir snorers deep in meditational bliss, never came.
My experience, on a Good Vibes Floating Sound Bath in a pool under the stars, was like something from another dimension – at least that’s how my mind felt when I was finally back in the world of the living. The word bath is somewhat misleading – you don’t get wet, just “bathed” in sound waves produced by singing bowls, gongs and chimes.
For someone whose mind is always whirring, it was an incredibly calm experience. And that’s the vibe that pretty much summed up my time visiting Greater Palm Springs, Southern . GPS isn’t a party destination. These days, it attracts an older crowd looking for a more luxurious and relaxing holiday. And when the mind is calm, the body can follow.
But what the area lacks in a late-night scene, it makes up for in plenty of other ways. Nestled in the Coachella Valley, Greater Palm Springs is at the foot of impressive, vast mountain ranges – you don’t need to imagine picturesque backdrops here, they’re right there. But that does mean you have to chase the sun at certain times of the day, as it starts to set and drop down behind the ridges.
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Fortunately, GPS is made up of nine unique cities you can move around – each with their own style and attractions. Palm Springs is famous for its mid-century modern architecture and design, with homes ranging from traditional simple lines and large windows to the eclectic.
The Frey House II is built high up in the San Jacinto mountain range and even has a giant boulder incorporated into the lounge. And a couple of hours spent on guide Michael Stern’s Modern Tour takes you too some of the quirkiest homes you will ever see – guaranteed.
Another of the cities, the artistic Coachella (yes, home of the famous music festival) houses a long wall of murals depicting the lives of locals while the area surrounding Palm Desert offers luxury in the El Paseo Shopping District. While in PD, spend a morning at the Living Desert Zoo and Gardens, home to more than 500 animals across 80 acres. Rolling hills provide a perfect landscape for everything from rhinos and cheetahs to ostriches and wolves.
You can even feed your sense of adventure – and that of a greedy giraffe – for a small extra fee. The gentle giants take food out of your hand. Watch those huge tongues! If you fancy venturing further out, Red Jeep Tours take you deep into the heart of the San Andreas Fault zone, where you can marvel at the geological features sculpted by tectonic plate movement.
The jeep travels through a labyrinth of canyons and breathtaking landscapes and ends with incredible views back over the whole valley. The earthquake fault system is still active, but I’m sure you’ll be fine! Around an hour from civilization is the beauty that is Joshua Tree National Park. Well, I say “park”, but at almost 800,000 acres, it’s more of a small country within a country.
Natural desert treasures litter the landscape. One minute there’s an ocean of nothingness, next, you’re dodging cactuses as you try to take a stroll, then there are huge granite monoliths and boulders lining the road. Finally, you’ll see thousands of the park’s namesake, the Joshua Tree.
You can do almost anything here, depending on your level of enthusiasm – hike, rock-climb, stargaze, birdwatch, ride a horse... the list goes on. Even if you’re not soul-searching, the park finds ways to soothe your soul. Whether it’s the climate, the desert paradise has around 300 days of sunshine a year, or the pure beauty of the healing desert, you can’t help but feel at peace.
You could almost use the good old British phrase “there’s something in the water” making you feel good – but that is literally what does happen at The Spa at Séc-he in Palm Springs. For generations, the sacred waters have soothed, healed and transformed.
The centrepiece of the spa is 22 private mineral hot springs baths, which fill with water rich in mineral content to soothe. This “Taking of the Waters” experience is utterly blissful, as you’re submerged in water which emerged from the ground in its purest state for the ultimate in healing.
That’s not it, though. You can also enjoy a steam room, sauna, ice bath, zero gravity chairs (great for napping) or just chill out poolside with a number of relaxation spots. Another spot for great relaxation is the historic estate of Sunnylands, in the city of Rancho Mirage.
As well as the visitor centre, you can tour the main house, which has welcomed hosts of US presidents and world leaders, both for a retreat and also as a place to host summit meetings. Ronald Reagan and Frank Sinatra have stayed there, and with a tour, you can get into their rooms.
For an experience you’ll never forget, spend some time with fab duo Alexis and Chris at Superbloom HQ. The one-of-a-kind Paint with Meaning experience allows you to explore your creativity using 10 colours the couple have created, along with their own unique meanings.
I (completely devoid of any artistic talent) personalised a pair of Converse that will undoubtedly become one of my wardrobe staples. Tourism is the main draw of GPS– there’s no big industry here. Many of the residents started out as tourists who loved it so much they sold up and moved.
The hotel industry is huge, with everything from small boutique hotels to resorts filled with pools and golf clubs. The hip Parker Palm Springs is one of the best, with two pools in quirky gardens, a hugely comforting indoor fire pit, and a reception lobby graced with decor far from the ordinary.
Rooms are arty, stylish and large, and visiting the on-site restaurant Norma’s for breakfast – warning, the French toast is massive – is a treat to set you up all day long. Back in Palm Desert, the Hotel Paseo is right in the heart of the action, but still private enough to sit on your balcony to enjoy the stunning mountain views. The dining scene in Greater Palm Springs rivals any of the big US cities, with everything from fine-dining to delightful brunch spots.
Take the charming Farm, a country-chic restaurant offering traditional French dishes (omelettes to die for) while hummingbirds flitted around. Or Michelin-recommended Bar Cecil, the “place to be” for those in the know visiting town. Tables are snapped up as soon as reservations open, with a daily queue outside.
It’s easy to see why, with such gastronomic delights on the menu. As simple as it sounds, it was the freshly baked chocolate chip cookies that stole the show for me. At the Pink Cabana, part of The Sands hotel in the city of Indian Wells, you’ll be met with vibrant, influencer-friendly decor and a menu featuring Mediterranean cuisine with a Moroccan influence. And don’t forget to try a famous cocktail.
At the recently opened Lola Rose Grand Mezze, within the Thompson Palm Springs hotel, flavours of the Middle East will indulge your senses, and I’d fly back just for their celebration bread alone. But the highlight for eating in GPS is surely Mister Parker’s – the decadent dining spot within the Parker Palm Springs hotel.
Dusky lighting, over-the-top decor and the biggest black pepper mill known to man. A menu filled with oysters, lobster bisque and filet mignon set the tone. And while I could eat all day (another famous date shake from Shields Date Garden, anyone?), there’s more to GPS than just food.
But then, a full stomach makes for a happy heart, so the proverb says. And a happy heart is most definitely what you take away from a holiday in Greater Palm Springs.
Book the holiday- United Airlines flies from Heathrow via Denver to Palm Springs, California, starting at £978 return.
- Rooms at the Hotel Paseo, Palm Desert, start at £233 a night room- only.
- Rooms at the Parker Palm Springs resort, Palm Springs, start at £329 a night room-only.
- Plaza Premium airport lounges operate at more than 80 international airports worldwide, including Edinburgh, Heahtrow and Gatwick. Guests can enjoy unlimited food and drink for £47.52 for two hours, with children admitted free.
- More info at
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